Friday 26 October 2012

Composting with a Wormery

It kills me to dump food waste and I try my best to use up every possible morsel, but every day I find myself visiting the bin. As I live in a built up area, I am worried about attracting vermin and other wild animals so had always ruled out a normal compost bin. Then I began reading about composting with worms and it seems like the perfect solution for someone with space restrictions.

Worms aid the decomposition process by eating the dead plant material, breaking it down and enriching it with minerals and nutrients.



 The first piece I read as I began my research was a review on the Hungry Bin by The Compost Bin blogger, CompostWoman:




 Manufacturers description:
The Hungry Bin is a unique design. It creates an ideal living environment for compost worms. The worms convert organic waste into worm castings and a nutrient-rich liquid, which are both high-quality fertilisers. The liquid drains freely from the bin and into a tray placed below it. The tapered shape of the bin compresses the castings, encouraging the worms to move to the surface layer to access fresh food. Compressed castings are easier to handle and largely free of worms. It is a simple process to collect both the castings and liquid produced by the hungry bin.


Further investigation of worm and bin suppliers brought me to a great information page on the Irish Peatland Conservation Council's page which shows how to make a basic bin suitable for containing composting worms.






 What is required?


  • At least 250g of worms - suitable worms are Tiger/Brandling worms (available at fishing tackle shops).
  • A big large enough for your needs, with a well fitted lid
  • Drill holes for drainage at the bottom of the bin, but it is worth collecting the liquid that seeps through, as it is highly nutritional for the garden.
  • Layer the bottom of the bin with drainage material, e.g. gravel
  • Place a sheet of heavy perforated plastic over the gravel
  • Layer on some bedding for the worms. This should fill almost half the bin. It must be moist. This can be one of the following materials:


  1. Moist leaf mould
  2. Moist shredded paper
  3. Straw manure
  4. Rotted compost


  • Add the worms on top of the bedding
  • Cover the worms with sheets of wet newspaper. This will help retain heat and moisture.
  • Allow them to acclimatise for a week before adding food.

Worms like to be warm so keep the bin in a sheltered location. However, keep out of the sun as this may cook the worms. During the winter, when the temperature may drop below 0, keep the bin in a shed to keep the worms active. It is claimed that the worms can process half their body weight per day, so 1KG of worms should produce 1/2KG of compost per day. Productivity will slow down in the cold weather, so do not overfeed or the bin will begin to smell.

What can be composted?

Virtually any organic material can be composted in your wormery. Chop food up to aid digesting.
Avoid citrus fruits, grass clippings and perennial weeds.
Small quantities of meat can be added, but large amounts will only develop maggots, which will grow into flies.


Add



Kitchen scraps like fruit and veg
Cut flowers, tea leaves, coffee grounds, crushed egg shells
Small amounts of torn cardboard and paper but avoid magazines and coloured paper. Mix well with other items.
Grass cuttings can be added with caution. It is high in nitrogen and a good activator but can only be added in minuscule amounts so it might be better to just leave it out as it can take over the mix.
Leaves can be added a little at a time, but it might be best to make leaf mould separately.
Human and animal hair can be added, but dampen it first.
Wood ash which provides potassium and lime



Don't Add


Dog and cat droppings or droppings of any meat eating animal
Man made fibres - these will not rot
Materials sprayed with weed killer
Meat bones
Material infected with disease


Harvesting the compost

After 3-5 months, there should be enough compost to harvest. To prepare the bin for harvesting, do not add new food for two weeks. To separate the worms from the compost, it is recommended that you push all the contents of the bin to one side. Add new bedding and food to the other side, and the worms will begin to cross over to the new bedding and food. Harvest the compost when most of the worms have moved to the other side.



4 comments:

  1. Hi did you ever try out the Hungry Bin? I like that design, but never tried it. I've made wormeries from stacked boxes, trays and tyres, and also larger single-container ones (e.g. from an old bath). They're all fairly satisfactory if I mind them properly. Donal

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Donal, thanks for commenting. I never did try it. I still have my normal compost bin but it is loaded with brandling worms. I never added them myself but they came from somewhere. The compost seems to be breaking down nicely and the worms seem lively so I'm happy enough.

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    2. Yeah worms will find their way into anywhere there's some toothless munching to be had - I've even found them in their thousands in a Big Pig composter on an upstairs balcony in the middle of the city - they must keep their wings well hidden.

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  2. Thank you so much for such an informative piece of information :)
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    Batterymodeon

    Thanks

    ReplyDelete

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